Feb
20
PCB using toner transfer method and photo laser paper
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How to create a PCB ready for etching, using low-cost toner transfer method, using photo laser paper ? In 10min ? Easily ? Visit sirloon.net for details
How to create a PCB ready for etching, using low-cost toner transfer method, using photo laser paper ? In 10min ? Easily ? Visit sirloon.net for details
25 Comments
February 20th, 2010 at 9:11 am
toner from laser printers contains plastic, when you iron the paper, toner (and plastic) melt on the copper board, it gets transfered. Since it’s plastic, etchant doesn’t remove, you got your PCB at the end… The main issue here to get some paper where toner won’t get “integrated” into the paper’s structure. That’s why glossy papers are better, toner less sticks on it, you can more easily melt it with your iron.
February 20th, 2010 at 9:19 am
i know its true but i dont get it. how does the toner protect the copper from being etched?
February 20th, 2010 at 10:09 am
i have a question. doesn’t photo paper have plastic? doesnt it melt on the board when you iron it.. just a question… im planning on printing my circuit on kodak centers, is it okay? thanks
February 20th, 2010 at 10:12 am
Yes, normal piece of copperbut a quality copper board. I observed low quality copper boards don’t give good results, tracks are blur
February 20th, 2010 at 10:32 am
do you use a normal piece of copper
February 20th, 2010 at 11:24 am
Ink???
You should be using a laser printer not ink-jet
February 20th, 2010 at 11:57 am
Its ok, I was being a fool with an inkjet.
February 20th, 2010 at 12:32 pm
search youtube for “Building a super spy bug transmitter” guy called dazaro3 uses plain old used magazine paper. only heats it for 45 secs. search google “Make PCBs at home with magazine paper and your laser printer” – will be listed first.its all there in black and white:)
February 20th, 2010 at 1:01 pm
the quality of the result depends on:
- surface of the copper (well prepared .. free of grease etc.)
- the toner itself (some toners are easier to use than others)
- the temperature of the iron
- the pressure you apply to the iron (and duration perhaps).
—–
This is why I don’t use an iron but a modified laminator…… the basics are the same.
February 20th, 2010 at 1:06 pm
@CmdrTobs I have also found that because photopaper is now waterproof, one cannot rub it off with fingures like he did at the end. one just has to literly let it soak off with time. maybe he has used old stock photopaper? I would still get the transfers from an electronics shop online for an intricate project
February 20th, 2010 at 1:52 pm
@CmdrTobs I have also tried glossy photo paper, you can have some success with it, I made a more simple board than this chap has done and it was 90%ok, had to touch some parts in with a etch resistant pen. I have found that you don;t nead to iron as much as he does but one cannot empahsise enough on the hot water, let it soak the paper compleatly off, and make sure that you do not pull it off at all! I think a better way is to buy sheets of toner transfer at electronics store
February 20th, 2010 at 2:04 pm
??-?? )
February 20th, 2010 at 2:39 pm
can not use a ink jet printer only
Laser-Jet Printers will work the paper you used will work but wax paper works good and is cheep
February 20th, 2010 at 3:01 pm
I tried this serval times all failures.
I used photo glossy paper with the ink on full. From iron temperatures starting at hot to paper browning hot. All failures.
Have I missed something in treating the copper or is this a hoaks?
February 20th, 2010 at 3:54 pm
Would of been much quicker to just draw it on with a black pen.
February 20th, 2010 at 4:19 pm
toner is mostly made of plastic, and you know the type of etchant tank u use? yes plastic
February 20th, 2010 at 4:40 pm
etchant needs password?
February 20th, 2010 at 5:03 pm
Thank you for your time and effort!
February 20th, 2010 at 5:14 pm
hello thanks for your video ,can’t I use lexmark X11800 printer for the .. can i known you by your email….
February 20th, 2010 at 5:27 pm
toner contains plastic, and cover the copper so etchant can’t access it.
February 20th, 2010 at 6:06 pm
sorry for this amateur question but how does the toner prevent the acid from etching off the tracks underneath the print itself? is it because toner isn’t water permeable? thanks.
February 20th, 2010 at 6:07 pm
go to your local goodwill, Look for a junked or old laser printer, Remove the Fusing roller asmbley and use that for your iron. It heats up to 200c and it heats bothsides aswell as compresses between the rollers. The other option is just modifying the printer it self to print directly onto the board (the paper is not required to bind the toner just heat). Another option is do it with a inkjet useing resist ink’s avoiding toner and heat all togather. But all require some degree of printer moding
February 20th, 2010 at 6:59 pm
FYI, the temperature from my iron (the one on the video) is about 180°C. Not toot much I guess, even it is the max. I don’t know what would be the optimal temperature, but this is working perfectly for me.
February 20th, 2010 at 7:39 pm
This is one of the better vids on here, Way to go.
February 20th, 2010 at 8:06 pm
Hi there! Really nice video…Very helpful!
Do you, or anybody, knows how to transfer the silkscreen part (top, without copper)?
Thanks!!!